Fiji: Around Lautoka

November 8, 2015 – Yadua Island (Vanua Levu)

Something happened to me in Fiji… I reset my clock to Fiji Time, and it had nothing to do with crossing the International Date Line.  Instead, it had everything to do with slowing down and taking time to enjoy… the sceneries, the people, the marvelous underwater life.  All in all, taking the excuse of a broken computer keyboard, I stopped writing, started to play the ukulele, and just did nothing but soak up the surrounding calm and beauty, letting JP and Domino happily shuttle me from one place to the other.  Where have we been?  I suppose it’s about time to share our Fiji experience with you.

Around Lautoka.  Since we have decided to stay in Fiji for the cyclone season, one of our tasks has been to survey the possible hurricane holes and available marinas.  What is the risk of cyclone in this “El Nino” year?  1.5 the normal risk, if you are to believe FijiMet.  Yet, according to satellite imagery, a finger of cold water extending towards Fiji seems to somewhat protect the area, while French Polynesia seems more at risk than we are.  Who knows?  Regardless, we need to develop a strategy in addition to our plan for a quick getaway at sea, which requires our tanks well fueled-up at all times. 

- Port Denarau–VHF 11 -  A world-class marina and home to the most prestigious yachts around, Denarau does not have moorings for yachts longer than 15 meters.  Space at the dock is at a premium but we still managed to secure a spot when our granddaughters joined us for a 2-week cruise in the Yasawas.  In 16 hours, we managed to knock down 5 loads of laundry (the only hot-water washers in all of Fiji!), take delivery of our groceries from FarmBoy (928-6371), receive our major shopping load from Cost U Less  take the $1 bus to finish provisioning in Nadi Town, raid Denarau’s luxury deli for cheese, chips and salsa, and the Wine store for Fiji rum (55 degrees strong!) – When Denarau has no room inside, the only solution is to anchor outside (Malan Cay), where the barge traffic is nasty and the dinghy ride rather wet. 

Other solution: anchor in Nadi Bay, in front of the “Bamboo” backpacker hotel.  Taxis are always eager to take you to town for half the price than the Denarau cabs.  Just take your dink up the beach.  At night, enjoy the many fire-dancing shows on the beach.

As for cyclone strategy at Denarau, the marina holds a seminar and the marina crew will lead boats up the mangrove at Denarau, but it’s a small spot, crowded with boats… not the best option.

VUDA POINT MARINA (Extension being proposed)

- Vuda Point Marina- VHF 14 – A favorite among cruisers, Vuda has room for 40 boats inside its circular lagoon.  It also has one temporary/quarantine mooring buoy outside: wow! Rough anchorage…  We left Domino for a month at Vuda and were happy with the care.  

The staff at Vuda Point is always eager to please Oktoberfest was a blast! MUSKET COVE MARINA

Vuda is our favorite fueling dock in Fiji: easy access and high sides.  It’s a good place to leave your boat during cyclone season, in the “keel pits.”  It’s also a good place to haul out small boats for a quick paint job.  But not for us…

- Musket Cove Marina– VHF 68 - On Malolo Island, Musket Cove is certainly a hit with the cruisers.  There are 20 berths and a number of mooring balls, capable to take yachts up to 25 Tons.  The marina is packed at the end of the season, after the Regatta and when the yachts await a weather window to make the passage to New Zealand… and then, it’s ghost town!  Last week, the marina was empty.  Cyclone hole?  Not really, except for one spot in the inside lagoon, where we could have left Domino… but didn’t.

- Lautoka– This is a big commercial harbor, not for us to wander into.  YET, the river leads deep into the mangrove and that’s ONE possible strategy in case of cyclone.  Call the Lautoka Pilot on VHF 16 and he’ll escort you up the mangrove.  Call early: 1^st come, 1^st served.

 This said, Lautoka is a great place for provisioning and various yacht services.  Rigging, electrical (we had to get an alternator fixed), you name it: cruisers town!

- Vitogo Bay – 17*33.946 S – 177*29.526 E– Slightly north of Lautoka, this large bay is where we escaped to when rough weather hit.  Not a cyclone hole per-se, it’s a good anchorage and can accommodate a large number of boats, with good holding in thick mud.  The NW end not protected by land is barred by 2 small reefs that cut the NW chop.  We spent a week hiding there, not feeling a breeze or a ripple on the water, while yachts everywhere else were slammed with 25-30 Kts, gusting at 40!  One drawback: access to shore may exist, but there is no road leading from shore to anywhere… this is swamp land.

North of Lautoka, Vitogo Bay is our favorite rough weather option

- Saweni Bay – 17*38.398 S – 177*23.711 E– Between Vuda Point and Lautoka, Saweni Beach is a convenient little anchorage, with excellent holding in “cement” mud, but to be entered with good visibility: Beware the rocks, especially on the SW of the bay.  On shore, the public beach is a favorite with the locals, with road access and bus stop, and the apartment complex has a small grocery store. So, it there is no room at Vuda Point Marina, Saweni Bay is an excellent anchoring option.

Between Vuda Point and Lautoka, Saweni Beach is an easy anchorage, with easy public access

- Dreketi Bay – 17*39.699 S – 177*22.998 E– Just south of Saweni Bay, Dreketi is a small inlet, open to the west.  Although we’ve noticed yachts anchored there, we didn’t explore it, mostly because we found it too open to the west.

Now that we feel better about our bad weather options, we are continuing our circumnavigation of Fiji.  The winter has been rather cold, the coldest in the last 10 years, with high winds and cold water, the fish has migrated to warmer waters and the snorkeling has been chilly, 4-mil wetsuit needed.  We have been dodging high winds all season, only enjoying a calm day in every 10 or so… rough cruising but still, it’s cruising and it's beautiful.  So, let’s go cruising the Manamucas and Yasawas!

Till next time…

dominomarie