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Great Barrier Delight

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Port Fitzroy & Kairara Bay
April 18, 2016 - 
Marsden Cove Marina, Whangarei, New Zealand
POST #366  -- 

After almost six months in New Zealand, we had a few weeks off before going back to Fiji and where did we decide to go?  Great Barrier Island, of course!  We love The Barrier.  Only 45 NM from Marsden Point, it's a short trip, but often rocky --very rocky in our case as we picked a day with a SE swell and 25 Kt winds from the SW, rocking us as we travelled eastward.  But, no matter; we glided into Nagles Cove (36*08.5S - 175*19.2E)  and dropped the hook behind our favorite Oyster Island.

Nagles Cove and Oyster Island at Easter... and 30 boats with us!

What is there not to love about The Barrier?  The anchorages are fjord-like, with so many different orientations that you can always find protection in a blow.  Anchorages are generally in 10-15 meter, with sand or mud bottom, good holding.

The Kiwis love fishing... in any weather... on any boat... even with their dogs!
As for fishing, just drop a line to the bottom with a bit of fresh bait and you're about sure to catch a snapper, if not a trevally or even a Kahawai, and --if you're lucky-- even a kingfish (yellowtail) at the turn of the tide.  

Dive for crayfish or scallops, gather cockles on the beach, oysters on the rocks, or mussels under the barrels and you have all the seafood you'll ever need.  As for the boat parade?  Well, just look around!



"ESCAPE" -  Another Malcolm Tennant Design

Now, this one looks suspiciously like a sister ship... anybody knows that boat?

There is is again, chugging at close to 20 Kts, not a wake... sistership, I think....


Easter week saw us seek refuge from a 5-day gale, blowing a steady 35 Kts with gusts and episodes at 55+ Kts... Kairara Bay  (36*10.8 S - 175*21.4E) held us tight.  But a word of caution: the 10-meter shelf on the north side of the bay is a rocky ledge with poor holding: if you hear the chain grating to the bottom, just move a bit toward the center of the bay: good mud. 



And if you hear slapping against the hull, you can be sure it's a yellowtail!  JP just grabbed his speargun and shot a beautiful 80 cm Kingfish right from the swim platform!

EVVIVA checked us out... we checked the helicopter!!

SMOKEHOUSE BAY (36*12S - 175*20) is another favorite.  The historical landing, built in the memory of a youth who drowned in these waters and kept in shape by passing cruisers, offers bathtubs, washing tubs with antique wringers, smoke houses to smoke your fish, and piles to tie-up to and scrape your hulls at low tide... it's a cool gathering place - 


BONUS: on either side of the bay are 2 small beaches with a good population of cockles and oysters!

Smokehouse Bay  carenage
More boats come in and out of this place than anywhere else, gathering for an evening of keen frienship!

Oh, we love this little classic!
Morning catch at Smokehouse: a 1-meter Kingfish!

Just south of Smokehouse Bay is Sven's Island, AKA "Barrier Gold." Land on the beach, brave the pigs and climb up to the little store.  Sven will talk your ears out, proudly introduce you to his unique boiler that he uses to extract essential oils from Manuka and Kanuka.  You'll be hard-pressed to leave without Manuka honey or hand cream, lip balm and a vial of essential oil!

Sven's Oasis... what a peaceful spot!
From Sven's Island, we took a walk up to the ridge where we discovered sweeping views of the Hauraki Gulf... but it was a rainy day, not worth a picture!  This said, the Barrier has many hikes with astonishing views!


One of the many interesting rocks that dot the Barrier
You never know whom you might bump into!  On our last morning, The Why showed up and John dinghied over for a cup of coffee.... then he was gone!


Cruising the Barrier is just breathtaking!


On a sunny day, this place is magic!

We had 10 days of bliss, diving for crayfish at Little Mahuki (36*13.8S - 175*18.4E), Scallops all around Port Abercombie, rock fishing in Katherine Bay, and threading the Man of War Passage (barely 30m wide)... all good fun!

Whangarei Town Basin Marina (Reva Restaurant is now closed)
Soon, it was time to return to town and get ready for Fiji.  The Town Basin Marina had a 48-hour spot for us and we took advantage of it.  How convenient to shop downdown, cross the street to the Pack'n Save supermarket, visit the Clock Museum, or enjoy a quilt show or two.  The town caters to yachties as ship chandlers, canvas shops, steel manufactures, restaurants and liquor stores are only too happy to serve us with a smile and empty our bank accounts!  but it's all good...
 
The Clapham Clock Museum and its giant sundial

We like Whangarei, its yachting scene and services.
Last seen in Panama, DARDANELLA was spotted in Whangarei!

We are closing our New Zealand chapter.  Tomorrow, it's off to the USA for a week.  Then, DOMINO joins the Sea Mercy Disaster Recovery Fleet to spend the season rebuilding the Northern Laus, Fiji.

A last goodbye to friends at MArsden Cove Marina as Domino and the marvelous IETA lined up for a farewell.  Both cats are built with GURIT products, by the way... Photo Marc Deborde.



Till next time...
Dominomarie.

Bye Bye, Great Barrier!









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