NEW CALEDONIA - LOYALTY ISLANDS - LIFOU
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| DOMINO at anchor in Doueoulou (Lifou, Santal Bay) |
As luck would have it —and as it it often the case in the cruising world— we found friends in Noumea. Annie & Claude (S/V “Moemiti") —whom we had first met in the San Blas Islands— are based out of Noumea. Claude had just completed the “Around New Caledonia” race and was itching to go sailing again. Our lucky day: the CNC (Cercle Nautique Caledonian) was organizing a rally to the Loyalty Islands and, yes, we were welcome to join them! What a treat!
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| S/V "MOEMITI" |
Although we diverged slightly from the CNC’s itinerary, we met them in Lifou for a wild few days.
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| New Caledonia and the Loyalty Islands |
The Loyalty Islands consist mainly of 3 islands located some 60 miles off the east coast of New Cal: Ouvea to the North, Lifou in the middle, and Mare to the South. While many cruisers on the way from Fiji or Vanuatu stop in Mare (indeed, you can do a temporary clearance in Mare’s Gendarmerie,) we bypassed Mare and went straight to Lifou.
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| Exchanging gifts is a tradition |
In the islands, the Kanac culture remains strong and must be respected. In every anchorage, a visiting yacht must present “La Coutume” to the village chief. This is a simple gesture (“Le Geste”) of respect from the visitor towards the community, and consists of a simple gift (cigarettes, money, T-shirts, or even foodstuff) wrapped in a “pareo.” The trick, though, is to find The Chief… there is the tribe chief, the little chief, and the big chief… each is eager to tell you that he is the one in charge, but we found out that each only rules on a specific (and often small) territory. When in doubt, ask for Le Grand Chef (the Big Chief) whose compound is usually recognizable by the palisade of massive tree trunks that surrounds the “Cheferie.”
Off to Lifou, then, but not without hooking up a Silky Shark, then reeling in a Black Marlin (both released) and hooking up a Mahi Mahi.
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| Silky Shark on the line |
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| Black Marlin on the line |
Yes, the fish is plentiful around New Caledonia.![]() |
| Baie de Santal |
1st stop: Doueoulou, Baie de Santal - 20*55.336S - 167*04.866E -Named after the sandalwood tree, the large bay is fringed by lovely white sand beaches. In the evening, as the locals light their fires, the smell of sandalwood invades the entire bay.
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| Traditional bure |
“Le Petit Chef” accepted our “Coutume,” a gesture we repeated a few days later with the entire CNC fleet, as we were treated to a full island meal of fish and roots.
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| Meeting the legendary Ron Given. |
Our personal highlight? When a dinghy boarded us at breakfast time and a sprite octogenarian hopped on DOMINO. “Hi! I’m Ron Given and I love your Tennant Powercat. Malcolm was a friend, you know…… (and on and on, as Ron is the chattiest octogenarian I’ve ever met!)
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| Our hostesses and cooks in Doueoulou |
2nd stop: Dockin Cliffs - 20*42.348S - 167*09.697E -
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| Dockin's Cliffs |
One of the prettiest anchorages we’ve seen, though dropping anchor between reef patches is always a bit nerve-wracking.
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| The anchorage and reef at Dockin |
While JP, Claude and Annie were up to scaling the cliffs to have a better view from the top, I preferred snorkeling the splendid sheet coral formations.
The high cliffs are THE attraction here, as well the large cave carved into the cliff… still, I preferred snorkeling with the Anemone fish!
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| Dockin's Cave |
3rd stop: Plage de Peng — 20*54.329S - 167*07.183E -
This little beach is a MUST: talcum-powder-white sand, fire pit, all for a BBQ and picnic.
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| Plage de Peng |
Of course, you have to find the local chief to present your “Coutume.” A Canadian yacht anchored next to us neglected this little gesture and was unceremoniously booted out of the anchorage!
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| Ron's catamaran looked like a winner! |
It was time for a picnic, singing native songs, and competing in a model sailboat design and race, with sailboats built out of beach combing material. Intimidating and tough competition, as Ron Given had drafted a full catamaran model and some engineers had come up with pendulous keels.
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| Pendulous keel: creative! |
The winner? An 8-year old little girl who used a simple coconut husk for vessel!
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| The winner |
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| Our entry |
Missed stop: We missed stopping at the Baie of Chepehene, (20*47.515S-167*08.857E) already occupied by a cruiseship. Yet, it is a popular stop where the Notre Dame de Lourdes Chapel sits at Easo Point. Also, the easternmost of the 2 red marks in the bay is noted to be a splendid snorkeling spot, replete with sponges of all colors.
After 5 days in Lifou, it was time to take our leave of the CNC fleet and move north. Next? Ouvea.
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| Sunset in Lifou with the beautiful MOEMITI |
Till next time
dominomarie
