Pentecost Island (Vanuatu) - June 2nd, 2017.
This was the stuff DISCOVERY Channel and National Geographic crave: Land Diving on Pentecost Island. One of the world’s few remaining rites of passage, Land Diving is becoming a tourist attraction that we were more than willing to pay $70 p/pers. to watch. This is, even in Vanuatu, a rare and special event, and we rushed from Port Vila to the village of Wali on the west coast of Pentecost to catch the last of it.
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| This is the original bungee jumping |
You see, land diving only happens at yam harvest season, when the vines that tie the divers’ feet are still moist and flexible, a short season in April-May. When June comes and the dry season starts, the vines are deemed too dry and brittle, a danger to the divers. Thus, land diving only happens for a short 6 to 8-week period each year.
This is an event specific to Pentecost Island. Nowhere else in Vanuatu is it performed. A one time, it was a rite of passage required of each young boy. It is now a voluntary act; no young boy is forced to jump. Yet, the young boys we spoke with consider it a proof of manhood, to the horror of their mothers who dare not watch.
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| Each jumper has his own landing style: shoulder sideways, upper back roll, chest flat. |
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| A branch, a stick, and 2 tuna cans do the job: perfect trolley! |
There, the locals must wear the traditional attire: waist girdle and penis sheath for men, grass skirts for women. They live in traditional palm huts, fish from traditional canoes, and subsist on their own farming of pig, cows, chicken and—of course— yam.
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| Reception committee |
Yam harvest is a big deal in Vanuatu and is the cause of much celebration and festivals. We joined a few, starting with land diving.
** Note - We have been using the Rocket Guide to Vanuatu for all our waypoints and have found them spot on. http://www.rocket-guide-vanuatu.com/
Shortly after we anchored by the black-rock and sand beach between Lonwe and Wali (15*54.519S - 168*11.194E) we discovered the vagaries of village politics. Lonwe to the north is catholic and French-speaking; Wali to the south is Protestant and English-speaking, the division a remnant of colonization days when the New Hebrides were French, then British.
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| The French-speaking villagers were about to feast with chicken... that will be for another day. |
Our friend Philip (s/v “Blue Bie”) had negotiated a show with the French village and at the appointed time, our 4 yachts disembarked to be lead to the French village. But STOP!!! The chief from the southern village showed up, telling us that the minister of tourism for the region was bringing tourists from Port Vila and had ordered the jump moved from the French to the English village. After much argument, the French-speaking villagers bowed out and we were led to the southern village. This was our 1st of many frustrating experiences of village politics.
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| The elder makes sure that everything is done right. |
In the end, a dozen of us tourists were led to the giant jumping tower. To be sure, there is only one man in charge of the tower, its woods, its detachable platforms, the long “lianas” that tether the jumper to the base, and the grass that tie the jumper’s feet. If the man decrees that the vines are too dry, no argument.
While the jumpers get ready, a choir of men, boys and women sway and sing to encourage all participants
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| Another successful landing |
Each man has a job. One is in charge of the landing platform, a plot of soft soil on a sharp slope, that he constantly cleans of debris and tills to maximum softness. This man also takes care of the jumper upon landing, helps him up and releases him from the tethers.
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| First jump ever! |
Two other men are in charge of helping the divers onto the tower, tethering them and setting up the jumps, as well as removing the platforms after the jumps.
The young boys, as young as 8 years old, jump first, from the tower’s lower levels. The first-time jumper was cheered on by a chorus of men, boys and women, singing and chirping him unto action. Mama was closing her eyes. But the jump was a success and the boy swelled up with pride.
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| The top man! |
Adult men jumped from higher and higher, until the top jumper launched himself from the top of the 30-meter tower, pumped up by chants and bird chirping. yes, he could definitely fly!
While this show was presented on the west coast village, most jumpers and dancers had come from the traditional villages on the east coast.
The "crack" sound that can be heard near the end of the jump is the proof of a functioning shock-absorbing system. Each launching platform is mounted on a few sticks. When the jumper reaches the end of his fall the vine tenses up and pulls on the platform, breaking the support sticks, therefore allowing a bit of a stretch and shock absorbing to soften the fall.
It was, indeed, a privilege to be accepted into the village and to share in the ceremony.
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| Back landing... stylish! |
Later, the young boy’s mother sold us coffee and bread, just to make a few Vatus so she could send her boy to school. No, secondary education is not free in Vanuatu and we were happy to spend a bit of $ to help her out. Yes, her son had jumped but the money definitely didn’t go to him.
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| Successful 1st jump... proud boy! |
WATERFALL BAY - 15*47.310S - 168*09.691E - A few weeks later, we anchored overnight in this beautiful bay, one of the many where waterfalls drop straight into the sea. Another nice anchorage!
Till the next one…
dominomarie