Guanaja: Green

March 2, 2012 (Happy 21st Birthday to our grandson Asa!)

Mangrove Bight- splendid anchorage at the e of the volcano

Mangrove Bight

(Guanaja – Honduras)

16º30.191 N - 85º52.143W

The Gulf of Honduras is living up to its infamous reputation: we are stuck at the bottom of it, with easterlies in the high 20’s and 6-12’ waves preventing us from making headway eastward. But there are worse places to be stuck at. We are well tucked in at the Mangrove Bight anchorage, sheltered behind the ancient volcanic crater and pampered by Georges and Ginger, hosts extraordinaires at the Clearwater Paradise Resort.

El Bight anchorage - In the distance, Honduras mainland

Ecclectic, the island of Guanaja is a green gem. Most of the pine trees have been destroyed by Hurricane Mitch, but the few that have survived lend an incomparable cachet to the island. From the turquoise waters of Graham Cay, to the chaotic jumble of Bonacca, the secluded peace of Michael’s Rock and the quaint atmosphere of Mangrove Bight, Guanaja is, as the locals call it, a “Forgotten Paradise.”

Graham Cay - (16º27.62N-85º50.04W)

Graam Cay: No more moos, but a lovely spot

A more idyllic spot to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary, we could not dream of. Turquoise waters all around, the Cay is home to Graham’s Place, a hotel-cum-beach bar and white sand beach. The moorings have disappeared but it’s easy to anchor and the reef and the island provide protection from the waves. Want total relaxation? Graham’s Place is it!

El Bight anchorage; Duar Rock and Bonacca in the bacground

El Bight at Bonacca (16º27.25N-85º52.13W)– This is the traditional anchorage in Guanaja, tucked inside the lagoon, but can get rolly in Southeast conditions. On shore, the Manati bar is the local watering hole; next door to it, HANS makes a wood-oven pizza feast on Mondays (and on demand); on the land outcrop, the resort sells ice to the cruisers and bakes pizza on Wednesdays. We’re taking to pizza… and sandflies and bug spray.

Joining fellows HB residents Kathy and Fred Barbour ("Makai") for good times

What a surprise to meet the catamaran “Makai” from… Huntington Beach! Of course, we knocked on that hull and met Fred and Kathy Barbour, only to find out that Kathy and I belonged to the same sailing organization (WORSA) and had both participated in many Women Sailing Conventions. Being from the same town and even the same neighborhood, it was natural to stick together for the next few days and gossip about our sailing friends at home… WORSA girls, are you ears ringing? Brian Fury, did you know you taught both of us our basic sailing skills at OCC? Small world!

Bonacca is the original settlement on the island, a rock crowded with wooden houses on stilts, home of fishermen and shrimpers.

Cool things to do there? Traipse the narrow streets on any Thursday (market day) and dig into the boxes of produce dumped on the asphalt, encouraged by the local women who let you know that “if you don’t fight, you won’t get;” chat with the “Cobra” security forces who patrol the streets (you already have shared a beer with them on Sunday at Graham Cay;)

make the rounds of fishermen’s huts in search of fish, or conch, or crab, or whatever seafood and find none (it all goes to the co-op;) stop by the immigration office and port captain;

Bonacca's immigration office

... and wonder at this anthill on the water who marches at a leisurely pace, smiling and welcoming you with pride.

Michael's Rock: the beach at the isthmus

Michael’s Rock (16º28.695N-85º54.534W)– (See waypoints for the cut below) Isolation; pine trees cling to the volcanic slopes and dip their boughs in the lagoon; emerald water; twin half-moons of white sand beaches; not a building; not a soul; only the lament of the wind that falls from the hills, a whisper, a rumble or a howl. Solitude. Peace. And, 800 yards away, the shelter of the reef, the breaking waves arrested, splendid snorkeling inside the lagoon, a sheer wall dive on the outside. For the adventurous on shore, a trail leads to a splendid waterfall…
But beware the entrance channel: only enter in good conditions and good light. (Cruising note: The End of the World resort no longer exists.)

But we passed, happy to dive and dive and dive. Michael’s Rock is worth the stop, even if the wind falling from the hills can drive you mad.

The from Clearwater Paradise visits Domino

Mangrove Bight (16º30.191N - 85º52.143W)– (See waypoints for the cut below)

Sandy Moore put-puts in his dugout canoe and crosses our stern. “Welcome to the Forgotten Paradise!” and promises to bring us tuna when he catches some… we’re still waiting. No catching these days, not with the wind blowing at 20-25 kts all day, squalls, water spouts, and 6-8’ waves. But no matter. We discovered Georges and Ginger’s Clearwater Paradise. Not only is Ginger a first class cook (eggplant parmigiana out of this world!) who uses only her fresh, home-grown vegetables, Georges is a top-notch cave diver.

Life-long professional diver and instructors’ instructor, Georges has been taking us on a whirlwind of wild diving. Caves and corridors, labyrinths and elevators, chutes, chimneys, chicanes, tunnels and pipes: who knew we could squeeze into such tight places? A whole new experience in diving among ancient corals and volcanic rocks, red and orange algae blooms, and a host of underwater creatures await. May Guanaja remain a protected marine park! (Remember, no harvesting anywhere in Guanaja.)

And now we wait. The wind is howling outside, gusting at 30 knots, and we see no relief in sight for the following week. That means, more diving with Georges and more of Ginger’s home cooking. No complaint

Photo: Kathy barbour

Until next time….

dominomarie

Michael’s Rock Waypoints:

1 - 16º30.201N - 85º54.373W

2 - 16º29.936N - 85º54.141W

3 - 16º29.626N - 85º53.994W

4 - 16º29.377N - 85º53.843W

Turn to starboard in the deep channel – anchor before or after the Rock. More protection west of the rock, more secluded but gusty east of the rock.

Anchorage: 16º28.695N - 85º54.534W