Honeymoon in Las Perlas

Mr. & Mrs. Acey Aseltine ... quite a catch!

 Seriously!  How many newlyweds start their honeymoon with grand’pa and grand’ma, uh?  When our (step) grandson Acey asked to visit us on board with his new bride Stacey, we were … as they say… stoked!

Congratulations to the newlyweds

Acey Aseltine is a young film-maker and musician, with already several works under his belt.  His first work, Revolutions Southward is the story of 3 young college grads biking from Humboldt County to Mexico.  His more recent work, “Exploring Humboldt” confirms Acey as a nature-and-outdoors documentalist.  It was then, no surprise, when he announced that he and Stacey, who just got her degree in Spanish language, were spending their honeymoon backpacking through Central America.  Could they start their trek with us on DOMINO?  But of course!!!! 

Since Acey wanted to investigate the cruising lifestyle, there was no other way than take the “Spaceys” –as they are lovingly nicknamed—for a little cruise.  Seven days, where do you go?  Las Perlas Archipelago, 42 nautical miles southeast of Panama City.  We bypassed some of our favorite anchorages such as Sabogaand Contadora’s Punta Verde to make a straight line to Chapera-Mogo Mogo and their splendid white-sand beaches.  But that was not without fishing, and Acey started with a little Dorado, tossing back a few skipjacks, all the while sighting humpback whales here and there.  Did I mention that Acey is a top-rate first mate?  Well-trained by the captain of the M/Y “LAURA” where Acey spent several summers working while in college, he had no problem scrubbing and cleaning  and drying the deck after each hook-up!

First Mate Acey never shies away from duty!

Early afternoon at Chapera, it was time for Stacey to discover Kayaking.  In two shakes, the kayaks were in the water and our lovebirds were exploring on their own.  It all had started well and Acey continued to endear himself by doing the dishes.  I was starting to really like this boy…

Stacey, glamorous on the Ocean Kayak

But morning brought bad weather and a nasty southern swell into the anchorage.  A quick look outside and we didn’t like what was coming.  A large storm was developing on the southwest, right over Isla del Rey and coming straight at us.  Time to move on if we didn’t want to be on a lee shore.  JP turned on the radar and confirmed our initial diagnosis: enormous storm.  Where to go from here?  The only protection from the southwest is tucked in at Espiritu Santo.  We didn’t even troll on the way.  Soon, the wind was up into the mid twenties, torrential rain limited the visibility to 300 yards, and lightning streaked the sky.  We hugged the coast, comfortably jogging at 10 knots, nice and dry in the cabin.  We had anchored at Espiritu Santo a dozen times before and could do it with our eyes closed.  Under pouring rain, we plopped Big Bertha down and had ourselves a nice lunch while the storm raged outside.

Panamean shrimper

We were not alone at the anchorage.  Early in the afternoon, a shrimper seeked refuge a few yards from us.  Did I say “Shrimper?”  Within minutes, I was trading a bucket filled with beer cans for a bucket of just-caught-shrimp.  Usually, a shrimper is out for twenty-some days and has to sprinkle the catch with chemicals for conservation.  So, what is sold at the market is not the best.  The shrimps in that bucket, however, all 14lbs of them, were just prime!  And when the Kunas came by with a couple of lobsters and an octopus, we added that to the Cioppino! Guess what we had for dinner!

A grimy sun greeted the next morning, but started to brighten by mid morning.  What better time to have a picnic?  Quick, bake a mushroom quiche and grill some eggplants, make a pitcher of Margarita, gather our snorkeling and hunting gear, and off to BBQ beach on Espiritu Santo.  I know our friend Betsy Crowfoot swears to have seen a boa in that location, but I never have… so far.  Luck was with us and the sun fully came out after lunch: hunting time.  While the “Spaceys” snorkeled around and I tried to point out “Lobster” to the newbies, JP was on the prowl for fish.  A parrotfish did nicely while I gathered a half-dozen white oysters, careful of staying clear of the resident black-tip reef sharks, not even disturbing a sleepy nurse shark.

It looks like we eat a lot… and we do, but it’s all fresh, organic, fat-free and loaded with omega-3s… and so far, cesium-free.  With our dedication to fixing only healthy meals, we made a point to have a little fun in the galley.  Louisiana Gumbo, Chinese Szechwan shrimp, Camarones al ajillo… around the world in DOMINO’s Galley.

Acey is not only a good film maker, he is an outstanding musician... so is Stacey!

All the fish was eaten and it was time to go for some more.  With a clear and windless morning, we decided to make the all-day trip from Espiritu Santo, around Isla Galera, south of Isla del Rey and mid-way up Isla San Jose.  Fishing grounds!  We were not disappointed.  Hundreds of dolphins (Pacific, Rizzo, Bottlenose) accompanied us while Acey filmed and filmed and filmed.  I swear the dolphins were talking to us, clicking and clicking away, the big leader training a curious eye on us while we were leaning out, clapping and cheering them on.  Suddenly, JP put the engines in idle. 

Acey in his element... filming dolphins

Uh-oh… that usually spells trouble.  “WHALE!”  Just five  yards to our starboard quarter, there he was, the humpback, its beady eye staring at us.  A second later, he was down, showing us his white belly, only to resurface on our stern and calmly cross our stilled wake, dodging our trolling lines, and waving its fluke “Adios.”  We sighted many more whales that day, some breaching and splashing down in a big white spray visible from miles away. 

If dolphins, whales and even turtles visited us all day long, it wasn’t the same for fish.  We were getting pretty desperate with only one little dorado for the day when suddenly the line zipped while coming around Galera.  Yessiree… a 14-lb big eye tuna was the prize for the day, followed by 2 more dorados (8 and 20 lbs.)  Acey was hitting his stride.  We entered the Cascade anchorage at dusk and enjoyed a well-deserved tuna sashimi.

The nicest couple!

The Cascade anchorage at San Jose is one of our favorite.  Once more, The Spaceys explored by kayak up and down the bay.  But we were ready for more oysters and one more snorkeling trip: parrot, trigger, angel, surgeon, snappers, they were all there to be looked at.  But the surprise was not it the sights, it was in the sounds.  

San Jose's Cascade anchorage at high tide

Humpback whales were calling for each other and it took us a few instants to understand that the noise was not coming from our squeaking masks or tuba, but from these giant mammals.  That was awesome!

By then, we had been five days on the water and our cruise was coming to an end.  There was one more anchorage not to be missed:  Pedro Gonzalez, just an hour cruise away.  Off we went… and caught 2 more small Dorados on the way.  I was wondering if the kids were not getting sick of fish, but if they thought so, they never let it on.  Did I mention that Stacey is the nicest girl, with the biggest smile and never a complaint?

Lunch underway: garlic shrimp, lentil salad and greens

If our cruising lifestyle includes a lot of fishing, cooking , eating, snorkeling, hunting, wildlife sighting, it also includes foraging.  We were soon on the beach, gathering mangoes and coconut!  But it was time for work.   JP dove and cleaned the hulls.  But something else was brewing… The Spaceys really were not kidding and had us pegged down for interviews all afternoon.  We can’t wait for their video to be released and you’ll be the first to know!

Stacey starts small, but soon to catch bigger.... much bigger!

At last, it was time to return to the city.  An early morning kayak outing got me a ride with the dolphins at sunrise and a half-dozen of rockfish on the troll, just right for a fish soup.   Meanwhile, JP and the kids made one last foraging for mangoes, coconuts and flowers.  Trust me, we eat it all, except for the flowers...

It had been a great cruise and we had delighted in the kids high spirits and conversations.  How could it be better?  Just 15 miles south of Panama City, all the trolling lines started to buzz at once…. Finally, in a double catch, Stacey and Acey each brought a big-eye tuna.  How is that for a good omen?  These kids are starting their life right!

And then, they were gone, off to Bocas del Toro, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Tikal and Mexico.  It was all great fun and love, and they didn’t even plug the toilet or empty the water tank!  They can come back any time!

Till next time…

dominomarie