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TRANSPAC!

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DOMINO cruises effortlessly into the big Pacific


November 19, 2013
Fatu Hiva, Marquesas

Another milestone: our first trans-oceanic passage.  From the Galapagos Achipelago to the southern-most island in the Marquesas (French Polynesia) this was essentially a dull passage.  Yes. Dull.  Nothing extraordinary.  Nothing bad. 

By the numbers: 
            Distance: 2,885 Nautical Miles
            Duration: 13 days, 3 hours
            Speed: 9 knots
            Fuel burn: 1,200 gallons

Captain JP takes advantage of a sunny day to hang out the laundry

Our longest passage so far had been from Miami to Deltaville, about 900 NM, pushed by the Gulf Stream, downwind and down-current, with following seas all the way.  This trans-Pacific crossing was nothing like it.  It was on the rough side.  While we were heading west, we were slapped by 15-25kt winds and rocked by 8-to-14-foot seas that backed around the compass, successively from the South to South-East to East to North-East to North and ending up with North-West.  So, except for the 3 days of following seas when we happily caught a 22-lb dorado, we were rocked by beam seas and buffered by winds in the 15-25 kt range.  Where were the long Southern Pacicif swells?  We had choppy seas, 6-7 sec. period at most. If it was too rough to fish most of the time, we at least had other choices: we picked dozens of squid off the decks every morning, some flying fish as well, making sure not to be tossed overboard ourselves when we were bracing for our morning collection.  We read, we slept, and little by little started to shed layers of clothing as the air and sea got progressively warmer.

Into the West

Our daily contact with the Seafarers Net (14.300 KZ @0300Zulu) was the highlight of the day as the Net kept track of our progress.  Every 6 hours we recorded our position on our paper chart.  Even though we have all electronic mapping and tracking, we still like to mark our dead reckoning on paper.

Recording our track on paper: it's a long way!
 One glitch, though.  About 1,500 miles underway at a 10-knot average, our Aqualarm started to sound sporadically whenever we were broadsided by a 12-footer, which was quite often.  Translate: sea water was not circulating normally through the engine cooling system.  JP checked the impellers on both side and noted that they were cracked –strange, after only 100 hours of service--, so he changed them, hoping that it would solve the problem.  Everything seemed better as we slowed down for the night, but as the seas got big again and pounded us sideways from starboard, the Aqualarm on that side kept ringing, prompting JP to shut off the starboard engine for a few seconds before re-starting it again.  What now?  Was the impeller slipping?  Was it a bad one, cracked and dry after spending 4 years on the shelf? Under the engine again, JP changed for a new impeller from a recent batch but the problem persisted.  Was the intake grill clogged?  With DOMINO stopped in the middle of the Pacific, JP jumped into the big blue.  There is nothing as beautiful as the pure blue of the deep ocean: South Sea Blue was the color of my fountain pen ink in high school… that was the color of 4 kilometers of water beneath JP who was scraping away at antifouling paint chips that had clogged the water intake grills.  Nothing is as scary as seeing your captain struggle underwater 1,500 mile away from the closest shore.  But it had to be done.  Would this cleaning help?  Not really.  As long as we were pushing at 10 knots against 12-foot beam seas, the windward hull was being lifted out of the water, high enough to load some air into the system and make the Aqualarm scream.  Inspection of the water filters showed no foreign particles but some air bubbles on occasion.  Solutions?  For now, we would have to shut off the engine on the windward side or slow down to a speed at which the boat would not be rocked so much.  Long-term solution will probably be to replace the flat grilles by forward-facing scoops: more drag but less air in the system.  Either way, we were forced to reduce our speed from 11 knots to 8 –and sometimes less as we ended up with wind, waves and current on the nose!  Once more, our John Deere support team was with us.  Our Iridium email to Bob Tokarczyk (http://www.Bellpower.com) was immediately answered and our concerns addressed: you just can’t beat the John Deere service team!  Our buddy Bill Shuman, owner of the powercat “HERO” was also on call and lent us technical support.  What would we do without our Iridium?

We called this Mahi Mahi: Midway

Finally, on the dawn of the 14th day, the dramatic coast of Fatu Hiva appeared and, lining up Omoa’s white church steeple with the basaltic spire on the mountain, we dropped anchor and inhaled the inebriating perfume of the Tiare in bloom.

Omoa, Fatu Hiva
DOMINO has done it.  From Panama to the Galapagos to the Marquesas, she ran 4,000 NM on 1,750 gallons of fuel.  This means that she has still enough diesel in her belly to take us to the Tuamotus and all the way to Papeete.  Now, that’s a thrifty girl!  And “They” said it couldn’t be done…  We love our long-range powercat and will keep advocating the design’s seakeeping abilities.

JP picks up squid off the deck

Journal excerpts –

1 – Nov. 6 – It’s cold (17c) but caught a dorado.  Crossed only 1 ship.
2 – Nov.7 – Squids off the deck, 2 dorados, 1 freighter and growing S swells.
3 – Nov.8 – Laundry in the sun, rolling seas, and moon river at night.
4 – Nov.9 – Too rough for anything but cleaning 3 doz. squid.
5 – Nov.10 – 1,000 mile mark – Rough seas, but managed salsa, quesadilla, fried flying fish and lemonade.
6 – Nov. 11 – Warmer, kept the back door opened all night.  Domino dancing the Salsa.

Fried flying fish on hot butter buns and cabbage salad
7 – Nov. 12 – Half-way mark and I put on a bikini.  Fried flying fish on hot buns.  Following seas at last and a 25-lb dorado.  Called the kids on the Iridium.
8 – Nov. 13 – What’s with the Aqualarm anyways?  Laundry in the sun (30c) and practice quilting patterns.
9 – Nov. 14 – Aqualarm plague.  Need to slow down.
10 – Nov. 15 – At last, winds down to 10 kts and seas less than 6’ – Beautiful.
11 – Nov 16 – Ooops.  Force 5 conditions…



12 – Nov. 17 – Force 5-6 conditions… audiobook time and let “Big D” get slapped silly.
13 – Nov. 18 – 12-14’ waves on starboard beam… Salsa time.  JP is the king of Wahoo carpaccio.  I’m not cooking hot food tonight!  Speed down to 7 kts as winds out of the NW, on the nose.
14 – Nov. 19 – 0630… anchor at Omoa, island of Fatu Hiva, Marquesas.  Time to clean the green algae on the waterline and to empty the bilges.  But first, some fresh baguette~

Till next time.

dominomarie


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