Taiohae, Nuku Hiva (Marquesas)
I know, I know… I spent the last 40 years telling my kids NOT to get a tattoo and here I am lying on the tattoo artist’s bed, listening to the pounding rain drowning the hum of the needle on my shoulder. But really, you cannot come to the Marquesas and leave without a tattoo. It’s such a part of the culture!
Francois (tel: 22-32-00) did a good job. We talked for over an hour about our lives; he spoke of his father; I spoke of my kids; he spoke of his art; I spoke of my travels. While a photo stream of his tattoo works was playing on his PC, he showed some of the carved wooden piece he was preparing for his clients in France, the Musee du Quai Branly (Prime Arts), the Chicago Museum; he spoke of his pupils at the local school where he teaches bone carving.
There it is |
Soon, we were in confidence and it was time to finalize our design. “A turtle,” I asked. “I don’t like turtles,” he responded. So, we spoke of turtles, of their wisdom, longevity, link to the spirit of the departed. “You’ll see,” I added, “When you’re done, you’ll be reconciled with turtles.” Another 30 minutes of free-hand marker design and we were agreeing. Three hours of needlework later, I had my very first tattoo.
MEANING… all Polynesian tattoos must tell a story. Here is mine!
On the turtle’s forward shell: our 5 kids, protected by a shield.
Middle shell: celestial bodies for navigation; at the center: a small Marquesean cross.
Back shell: protection shield
Front flippers: tikis – eyes of protection – see no evil!
Back flippers: tikis – ears of protection – hear no evil!
The outer circle: circle of life.
Upper ring: Northern hemisphere; braids; link to the family
Lower ring: Southern hemisphere; travel by sea
Cardinal points
Men love to show off... Here, at the gas station |
Underline: the sea, waves, fishing; Tuna fish to feed royalty (AKA, the captain); Bringing nourishment my people (I’m a dietitian, after all!)
Cyril, in Hapatoni (Tahiuata) tattooed the entire right side of his body |
Here are a few more tattoos, those are for warriors and some are actually very deep!
Rasta has the best: here, his left arm Tiki |
Rasta agrees that these were very deep and very painful |