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| El Garrapatero |
Adios Galapagos
November 4, 2013
Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos
If we had not lost our alternators two weeks ago, we would not have had to return to Santa Cruz, we would not have met Claudio Silva and his family, and that would have been a loss. Claudio, a most trusted marine electrician on the island for over 30 years, took care of our alternators, sent them to Guayaquil for rewinding, new diode and new “rectificadores” and here we are, 2 weeks later, all fixed-up and waiting for our “Zarpe” for the Marquesas.
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| Claudio and Nelly make us discover their favorite spots |
Besides the marine electrics business, Claudio and his wife Nelly run a small B&B, “Neliza’s Suites and Adventures (check the “airbnb” website) in Puerto Ayora. Yesterday, they decided to take us on a little discovery trip to the Garrapatero, a beautiful beach 30 miles away from the harbor. Named after the ticks that used to infest the beach and fresh water pond where thousands of wild goats and donkeys would come to drink, El Garrapatero is a splendid area and typical Galapagos scenery.
Flamencos and herons, marine iguanas and cactus were at the rendez-vous, but it’s the finches that entertained us this day and reminded us of Darwin and his extraordinary power of observation. Only 5 weeks in the Galapagos gave him enough material to start a 20-year thought process culminating in his evolution theory. 
We looked at the finches and their beaks and wondered not just at the diversity in nature but also at the curiosity of human nature. By the way, if Darwin’s theory of slow evolution by natural selection is too slow for your taste, read “Magnetic Reversal” by Robert Felix: another take on evolution.
Claudio took us through the highlands, natural habitat for the “Galapagos” (that’s how we call the giant tortoises here) and we had to carry a few off the road since they lumber freely and frequently block the dirt road. Their elephant-like legs reminded me of the real elephants in Africa who also blocked the roads… and we would not even try to get out of the truck! For fun, we couldn’t help wondering what would happen if the tortoises broke into the coffee plantation and gorged on coffee beans… have you ever seen a hyperactive turtle, high on caffeine? And so we spent the afternoon, putting the animals in various scenarios, having a fun time with Claudio and Nelly and their daughter Josalyn.
Claudio had to make us experience a typical Galapagos lunch at the “Gran Chaparral” restaurant where we enjoyed a “seco de pato” (duck stew) with rice cooked on firewood. But the surprise was a cup of hot “Cola Morada,” the once-a-year dessert served on “Dia de los Muertos,” a fruit soup made with purple corn and purple fruits (wild blueberries and blackberries) with chopped pieces of fruits (pineapple, papaya…) Deeelicious!
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| Crossing turtles |
It goes without saying that when Claudio and Nelly offered to give us some “Guineos”(bananas,) I kindly explained the sailors’ superstition with bananas. They understood. But they were not to let us leave the island empty-handed. Two hours after we’d returned to the boat, a water taxi showed up on our stern. “Gift from Claudio,” he said, and unloaded a full bag of… grapefruits! That’s a friend! If you go to the Galapagos, Claudio and Nelly Silva will receive you with open arms!
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| Fortunately, this Galapagos wasn´t too heavy but there are 2 more down the road |
We’re off tomorrow. We filed our float plan. The abandon-ship dry bags are ready with water, juice, soy milk, peanuts, fishing line and hooks, knife, sunscreen, sunglasses, our medicines and a change of clothes. We have at the ready 3 charged VHF radios, a GPS and extra batteries, a charged satellite phone, EPIRB and flare bag. We checked the Zodiac liferaft and know how to deploy it. We’re reviewed the Man Overboard procedure. Have all emergency numbers stored in the Iridium phone. Ready as we can.
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| The big Balmar alternators (yellow) charge our 24V battery bank (one on each engine) The small engine alternator charges the 12V starting batteries |
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| Frigate bird at breakfast |
The Capitania is preparing our Zarpe. And you can join us every day on HAM radio, Pacific Seafarers – 14.300 kHz at 0300 UTC
JP’s call sign: KI6CEV
Marie’s call sign: KI6DD
That’s all for now… till the Marquesas…
dominomarie
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| Te beak of a pirate bird |