NEW CALEDONIA - The Great North
October 2016
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| The Great North Reef at Ile Pott |
We had been advised not to cruise the Great North, supposed to be a cradle of violent independentists. But the lagoon looked too stunning and we just ignored that warning. In each village, we took care of presenting the “Coutume,” ask for permission to cruise, snorkel, hunt and fish, and we took care to meet the locals.
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| Our Great North Circuit: from Baie de Pam to Balabio and the Beleps (Ile Art, Ile Pott) |
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| Balabio Reef and Island |
1st stop: BALABIO - 20*03.500S - 164*09.800E - The Balabio Reef is extensive. Our friends Serge & Joann (S/V “Spirare”) had advised us to anchor west of the Ilots Saint-Phalle (20*06.632S - 164*06.239E) and walk the reef at low tide, but the tide was not with us: high at mid-day, the tide would be low by late afternoon and there was no way we were going to anchor in such an exposed area and walk the reef at night. We had to pass on this excellent stop.
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| Between Balabio and the Beleps: The Daos |
Instead, we proceeded directly to Fine Bay and anchored easily in 7 meters of water over sand. SAND! Blue water! At last… Quick in the water!!!
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| The reef is quite beat-up and home to big jellyfish (rather inoffensive) whose large white disks dot the way into Balabio |
The reef on the north end of the bay was a bit beaten up, still it was lovely to snorkel amid anemones, find giant clams again, spot a few spiny lobsters and look for the little creatures between the rocky crags. On shore, though, is where we were blown away by the geology. Quartz in all colors, mauve, orange, purple; amorphous glass; so many pretty granites that I wanted to load and bring on board!
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| Unlike the smooth giant clams we'd seen before, these have scallopped shells |
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| In Waala, the local girls are the ones going up the coconut tree! |
We didn’t see anyone on shore, no building, no village. But the snorkeling wasn’t quite what we were looking for, so we moved north.
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| Waala Bay, Ile Art (Beleps) - The inner mall-boat harbor. |
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| Waala Bay: red sand and gravel shore |
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| Ile Art (Beleps) Waala Bay anchorage |
2nd stop: ILE ART (Belep Islands) - Waala Bay 19*42.841S - 163*38.566E - This is a MUST STOP - In Waala, you must present la “Coutume” to the Grand Chef. He controls the Great North. His hut is easy to find: anchor in Waala (see point above) and land your dinghy while aiming towards the mark planted on shore.
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| Waala Bay... see the yello mark on shore, left of the pangas? That's the Chief's compound. Make sure to head towards the church before turning left toward the mooring balls |
Make sure to favor the east end in order to avoid the reef (save your dinghy’s prop!) The Chief is cool. He took us to the great “Case” and accepted our gifts, chatted for a while… and off we were, OK to visit the entire Great North!
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| The Chief clears us in! |
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| The conch rang: time to go for bread, hand-worked and wood-fire baked! |
Waala Bay is not a good spot for snorkeling. Again, the water is very minerally charged, visibility not so good… however, there is a small boat harbor and a regular ferry service from Koumac (main land.) It’s a sheltered anchorage and, in a few days we would have to return to seek shelter while another front passes.
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| In October, the water is not too warm... and the spiny lobsters plentiful! |
The town is quite lively and divided between clans. Each clan has its own bakery and grocery store. If you’re waiting for bread, you’ll know that it’s baked when you hear the baker sound the Triton conch!
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| Snorkeling the top of the reef, you can find these giant Tritons. Take pix and put them back. Not only are they illegal to take, but they are the only natural predators to the reef-eating Acanthaster |
3rd stop: Ile Pott - 19*34.687S - 163*35.132E - That’s what I’m talking about!!!! Completely surrounded by reefs, this fantastic anchorage is a slice of Paradise.
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| The way into Pott's anchorage |
There is not a lot of room and DOMINO certainly filled a fair slice of the anchorage. The entrance is narrow, best entered at low tide for best visibility over the reef, and better favor the southern shore: it has fewer underwater surprises!!
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| Striking purple coral |
We spent 4 days in Pott and would have spent more if a front and bad weather had not called us back to Waala Bay. What can I say about this place but that it’s some of the most pristine snorkeling we’ve ever found. I let you enjoy the pictures.
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Next? The West Coast and its reserves and sancturaries… you ain’t seen anything yet!
Till next time…
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| Fern seastar: this starfish sports up to 20 arms and buries its body into coral holes and between rocks |
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