December 20th, 2013
Hane Bay – Ua Huka (Marquesas)
08°55 84S – 139°31 05W
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| Hane Bay. Never had tehy seen so many boats here! |
“MATAVA”– Oh, please, do not call this event “Festival” for it is not a show for the tourist. What we have experienced during our stay in Ua Huka is a true renaissance of the Marquesan spirit. “Matava”means “Awakening.”
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| Welcome! Welcome! |
Every four years, delegates from the six Islands of the Marquesas Archipelago meet for three days of cultural exchange. During those “big” Matavas, delegations from other Polynesian people join in for the festivities: from Tahiti, Hawaii, the Australes, and (next time, hopefully) from Easter Island. But four years is a long time without a cultural exchange, so in the two-year interval one of the smaller islands hosts a down-scaled “Matava” for Marquesans only.
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That’s what everyone had been referring to since our arrival… we had to participate, of course.
That’s what everyone had been referring to since our arrival… we had to participate, of course.
“For the first time, Hané Harbor is decorated with sailboats.” For an island that Earl Hinz reported as uninhabited some 30 years ago, this was quite a statement from the island’s official. Some 30 sailboats (and 1 powercat) were gaily rocking at anchor, their mast lights indeed festooning the bay as a Christmas garland. All the yachties had gathered at Hané since the island’s main harbor (Vaipaee) had been blocked by the Aranui. One by one, we managed to duck around the rocks and reef close to shore, paddle our dinghies (too shallow for engine) to shore and lift them way up on the beach. A multi-colored jumble of dinx was a testament to our diversity: French, Canadians, Spanish, Germans, and one token American (guess who?) were congregating on this marvelous and strange event.
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| Jean-Louis, AKA "Rasta" From the island of Ua Pou, a terrific performer but scared Tina Lei |
Having endured a shut-out of their traditional culture, first at the hand of the missionaries, then under the rule of the French, the Marquesans of our fathers’ generation hardly spoke their native language. All had almost been forgotten.
Until a few years ago, when a descendant of the last chief of the island of Ua Pou took the Catholic bishop on a tour of the islands and showed the devastating loss of cultural heritage throughout the archipelago. Soon, the Catholic church was making apologies for the annihilation of the Marquesan culture and was helping to sponsor these “Matavas,” awakening celebrations. Inhabitants of each island started to scour the valleys for ancient words, songs, costumes, tattoos, traditions and taboos.
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| See the kids in the middle: drumming like the big boys... the drum in the back is a ceremonial piece, brought as a present to the people of Ua Huka from the people of Ua Pou And the crowd went wild! |
And now, during three days every other year, proud Marquesans explore and share their traditions through dances, invocations, “haka” incantations, costumes, music, and the “Grand Kai-Kai,” the food festival.
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| The celebration site. It took 2 years of community effort to build the "Marquesean House" Each island contributed to a part: the floor, the carved pillars, the center beam, the roof... and Ua Huka (AKA the Island of the Wastes) keeps all the discarded/unused materials |
We had the privilege of being joined by our Tahitian friends who had flown in from Papeete. Caro and William and their two children spent a week with us. What a great experience for the young Tahitian kids (Temana and Tina-Lei) who were able to experience the cultural differences between Tahiti and the Marquesas.
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| William and JP reunited |
A bit much, I think, when we proposed to ferry some of the dancers back to their island and Tina-Lei was terrified, thinking that they would eat her. Yes, cannibalism is definitely part of the Marquesan history.
I have captured some sound files and short movies, but unfortunately my 2 computers are a bit sick and are not willing to process movie files… perhaps in a few months when we get to Papeete we’ll get the poor working machines in order and I’ll post the music files on You-Tube… I’ll let you know. For now, enjoy the pix!
Till next time…
dominomarie
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| Warrior from the Fatu Hiva delegation (see by the Tappa cloth |
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| Roasted pig |
"Le grand Kai-Kai" - Every island had to bring their own pigs, goats, fish, produce, serving "boats" and all items to serve food for hundreds of people. An incredible community effort, thinking that all had to travel by boats from the 6 different islands. Very well done. We got a sense of their pride and community spirit.
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| Drumming, Marquesean style |
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| "And I will cut your head off and I will eat you!" |