Xmas in Ua Pou

When some of the performers at the Matava in Ua Huka learned that we were steaming for Ua Pou on Chrismas Eve, they asked us if we would give them a ride.  Of course!  But we had to negotiate that with our youngest guest, Tina Lei, who was absolutely terrified of Jean Louis, AKA “Rasta.”  

Rasta’s costume and Haka incantations must have been quite realistic because Tina Lei was pretty sure he was going to eat her.  But it only took a few rounds of cards and Rasta’s infectious smile to put Tina Lei at ease.  By the end of the trip, Rasta had taught both kids how to intimidate their parents by doing their own Haka.  

And when evening came and Rasta was paddling around in his outrigger, practicing for an upcoming race, it was none other than Tina Lei who impressed the “Savage Cannibal” with her sweet rendition on the violin of “Petit Papa Noel.” 

Check out the video.

Hakahau harbor is the main navigable harbor of the small island of Ua Pou.  The big-ship dock regularly sees the ARANUI and the TAPORO, the 2 ships that provision the archipelago.  The harbor is relatively small and it was no surprise that we had to move our anchorage point to accommodate the ARANUI as it made into town for a few hours.  Cruisers beware, then, that you may have to move.  But the view is spectacular.  Large volcanic formations just straight up from the harbor, complete with a small crater… just as mythic as Hanavave Bay on the island of Fatu Hiva.

To thank us for the ride home, Rasta organized a trip around the island, guided by his friend Heato who swears to be a descendant of the last Chief of Ua Pou.  We were in for a treat and it was not just the Pacific lobster grilled on the beach!  Heato loves his island; he loves his heritage; he loves the Matava spirit; oh yeah, he loves beer too, and friends, and talking.  He drove us to “his valley” and to the top of the ridge, over the vertiginous cliffs that dominate the deep bays that festoon the island. 

We finally arrived at the valley of Hohoi where the legendary “Pierre Fleurie”  (Phonolite) is mined.  This rock is most commonly yellow and incrusted with flower-shaped inclusions that are in fact degraded garnets.  Although the rock is difficult to spot in its natural state, it’s quite easy to find it on the beach where small shards lay, polished by the surf.  Of course, Rasta took the kids on a rock-hunting expedition and we all came back with small shards of Pierre Fleurie and other specimens which I have sent to our geologist son for more info.  If you’re not into adventuring on boulder-strewn beaches, it’s easier to go to the local market and browse the artisans’ display of cut and polished stones: turtles, bracelets, and the ubiquitous “Penu,” a pestle originally used to prepare the “Poi Poi” out of breadfruit.

After a Xmas breakfast of fresh almond brioche smothered with local guava jam, we were off again.  With strong winds from the NE and rolling seas, Hakahau was letting too much swell into the bay and we went to look for shelter on the western side of the island.  Destination: Hakahetau (yes, those names are difficult to remember!) Rasta had told us a bout a Christmas festival and fund-raiser and we were all for it.  But once in sight of Hakahetau, we realized that the swells were coming in and that it would be impossible to land on the beach.  So, off to the next bay: Vaiehu.  The bay was well protected from the north and we considered anchoring there, but there was absolutely nothing on shore, which did not appeal to our guests: we wanted ACTION… The next protected bay of Hakaotou was equally desolate.  Wanting to share our Christmas Spirit, we pushed on south to the next bay: Hakamaii.

Small and lovely, the village of Hakamaii faces southwest and the anchorage is protected by a big rock (motu Kuara) and a reef.  (Note: the reef extends to the south more than noted in the charts, so better favor the S end of the bay) - We dropped anchor and admired our surroundings.  You can’t miss Hakamaii.  As if to lure the sailor to its shore, the village’s small church faces the sea.  Instead of stained glass windows, it presents a façade of colorful tiles.  We took a serious look at the landing: all boulders and crashing surf.  

The two boat ramps might be suitable to land the dink at high tide, although it might be easier on a kayak, but at low tide, the bottom of the ramp is way above the surf-line and landing the dink was, after consideration, a suicide mission.  We watched the locals struggle to hoist their one outrigger out of the crashing surf and decided to swim to shore.  A gaggle of village kids were playing in the surf, rolling between the boulders, laughing gaily.  We should try it!  Into the water we went, mask, fin and snorkel, and made a pass around Motu Kuara.  Not much to see, a few fish and a straight drop of granite. 

Meanwhile, our crew had caught a few fish: red snapper and jacks.  Weary of possible ciguatera poisoning, JP and I abstained from the fish.

More about ciguatera in the next blog… until then…

 dominomarie