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| DOMINO at Bird Island |
February 21, 2014
TIKEHAU
Tide info:
High Slack Water - Aho High Water time (NOAA) + 3:18
Low Slack Water - Aho Low Water time (NOAA) + 3:38
Mean Low Water: 3.7m
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| Lobsster dinner on board... Williams' lobster kept for a week in the livewell! |
The distance between Rangiroa and Tikehau may only be less than 10 miles as the crow flies, but to go from pass to pass, the distance is quite different: some 38 to 44 miles, depending on whether you go around the NW coast of Tikehau or around the SE end and diagonally across the channel between the atolls. We navigated both ways, netting 2 15-lb dorados on our way out (North of Rangiroa) and 2 very nice 40-lb yellowfin tunas coming back, in the middle of the channel between the atolls. Good fishing grounds!
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| Pearl Resort, Tikehau |
The nice thing about cruising with friends is that we get to do things we'd never do on our own. Williams and Caro, our Tahitian friends back on board for a Tuamotu experience, wanted to connect with their friends on vacation at the Pearl Resort in Tikehau. No problem! Since the weather was clement, we took of for a discovery cruise of Tikehau.
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| Our Tikehau cruise |
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| Pearl Resort anchorage |
Pearl Resort - S15°06.12 - W148°11.90
We skipped the village altogether and dropped anchor in the turquoise waters of the Pearl Resort, in front of the pink sand beach. With the wind blowing at 15 knot all night, we figured we'd be nose in the wind. Not so! A current loops around the sand banks and caught the boat sideways, making us rock at anchor, not the most pleasant anchorage after all. Still, the anchorage is a lovely site and a good spot to go walk on the reef or just swim in the lagoon. JP and Williams ventured to the hotel pool and bar where they intended to get some cruising info. They got bodily attacked, unfortunately, not bay the charming and benevolent "Réré" who hosted the bar, but by swarms of mosquitoes that plagued the pool area. They came back on board itchy and scratchy, but with a cruising plan for the next 2 days.
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| For even a better view from the FB, JP added chairs to the pilot bench! |
Manta Ray Station - S15°04.958 - W148°13.433
In the morning, we were joined by Mary and Victor who were looking forward to a day of cruising on board DOMINO. Our first stop was at a manta ray cleaning station. There are several of them in the lagoon, including one close to the pass. A Manta Ray Cleaning Station is simply a spot where Manta Rays park themselves and let little fish clean them of parasites. We dropped anchor and sure enough, a Manta was parked there, her mouth gaping open, languidly flapping her wings while yellow fish scrubbed it clean... made me wish I were a Manta and get scrubbed all over. Perhaps if I wore a black Lycra more often...
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| Fun with friends |
Bird Island - S14°58.512 - W148°05.933
Just a half-moon of green floating on a Cerulean blue plate, thousands of sea birds wheeling and chirping above it, it's a marvelous little spot. We dropped anchor in front of the derelict dock and took the dinghy to shore. Respecting the many warning signs, edicts and various legal notices, we stuck to the path across the island. This was one of the occasions when I wished I knew more about sea birds. Species in this part of the world are not familiar and I sorely miss a guide of the local birds. So, the pictures will have to do. The only ones I recognized were a band of Curlews, their long, curved beaks unmistakable. We could have stayed there for the night, well protected of the wind, but after a lunch, a nap, and Victor's successful fishing (Double-spotted Queenfish and Olive Emperor) it was time to deliver our guests back to their hotel... not without Williams treating us to yet another lobster dinner. That's right! For the last week, we've been keeping the last of the 10 kg of lobster that Williams had bought in Rangiroa, well fed and bathed and aerated in DOMINO's bait tank. The little beasts were as good after 10 days as they had been on the 1st!
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| Garden of Eden: yep! (the pearl farm is abandoned, but the motu is in full exploitation) |
Island of Eden - S15°00.38 - W 148°03.46
"Leave behind civilization and science," enjoins the panel at the entrance of the Island of Eden, Church of the Prophet. If you thought that nothing grorws in the Tuamotus, think again. Following the scientific principles established by a group of engineers (so much for science) and put in practice by an army of volunteers (so much for civilization), the "Prophet" from Taiwan has established a thriving biological farm. Papaya, tomato, green beans, vanilla, even breadfruit and Acerola cherry grow in abundance. Pigs and chickens provide natural fertilizers. There is even a sea salt production shed that gives the best "fleur de sel" I've ever tasted. The pearl farm is no longer in production, however, sunk by the diving price of Tahitian pearls. We walked this amazing "Garden of Eden," guided by Jacques, the grounds keeper who turned out to be none other than Williams'"Pion" in grade school, the supervisor who walked the school grounds armed with a whistle tied to the end of a long and very tightly braided lanyard... and watch out if you stepped out of line! Well, Frank must have had a revelation. He and his family now keep the garden of Eden, its pigs and hens. After an obligatory stop at the gift shop where we couldn't pass up on the sea salt, we left the Garden of Eden, loaded with fresh spinach! Sometimes, you can buy more fresh produce, depending on the season and production.
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| Enjoying locally-grown berries with the locals |
NORTHEAST ANCHORAGE - S14°56.83 - W148°03.78
The Easterlies are strong again, a constant 15-20 knots, so we're looking for a sheltered anchorage. We found it at the north-east end of the lagoon. There isn't much here. The long "motu" is unbroken by any "Hoa" (inlet), so the water does not circulate much. The water is milky, which makes it difficult to see the bottom and avoid dropping anchor on coral heads. Fortunately, the bottom is mostly sand. While our guests checked out the beach, getting mauled by mosquitoes in the process and ran back to the relative safety of the water (up to their neck, anyways...) JP and I tried hunting the coral patches. Nothing but a scant boxfish, a delicacy we tasted in Puerto Rico. Just crack the shell open, liberate the 3 fillets still attached to the tail, bread and fry!
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| Now, that's better! |
We left Tikehau with the feeling of leaving behind a slice of heaven. But the best was yet to come. Half way between Tikehau and Rangiroa, we hit a school of Yellowfin Tuna. A double hit as JP and Williams each brought a nice catch on board, 42 and 44 lb respectively. I guess the lessons from Frank at CocoPerle Lodge on Ahe are paying dividends!
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| Williams & son Temana enjoy fishing at Tikehau NE (Photo Caro Mahuta) |
Our friends are now back to their lives in Papeete. Next get together? It looks like it will be in Fakarava... another time... till then...
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| Domino on the go |
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